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Tuesday, 6 May 2014

Cinque Terra

We take the three hour train ride up the coast from Florence to Levanto.


Levanto is on the Mediterranean one city north of Cinque Terra. Cinque Terra is an area that contains five small towns that are hard to reach by road and are all in the middle of an Italian National Park.


They have diving here, but I forgot my Divemaster card and besides the water is still 16C or 61F...


The first day we just enjoyed Levanto....


On day 2 we bought the Cinque Terra train card and caught the train to the little towns of Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore.


There are 175 railroad tunnels between La Spezia and Levanto. When you visit Italy you notice that they put their money into tunnels and bridges instead of B-1s and F-16s.


On the 8th of May we take a fast train to Venics for three nights.


When you hit five little picturesque towns, you quickly forget which picture goes with which town.






This is our patio in Levanto.


Monday, 5 May 2014

Poisoning Pigeons in the Park


Lucca and Pisa


The sun's shining bright
Everything seems all right
When we're poisoning pigeons in the park
We've gained notoriety
And caused much anxiety
In the Audubon Society
-Tom Lehrer



We decide to do the train from Florence to Lucca, then ride to Pisa for the late afternoon after most of the tour buses are gone and come back to Florence in the evening.



The large circular piazza in Lucca was originally a Roman amphitheatre (2nd century). Eventually it was fortified by blocking up the entrances and later the masonry was dismantled and used to build houses.


Lucca is a walled city on a hill. The continuous wall is about three miles in diameter and you can walk or ride a rent-a-bike  around the whole thing.


This is the Pfanner Palace in Lucca  The building was commissioned by the Mariconi family in 1660 and changed ownership to the Pfanner family in the mid 1850s. One of the exhibits inside is of antique surgical instruments once owned by Peter Pfanner who was mayor of Lucca from 1920 to 1922.

The bank windows and ATMs in Pisa are colorfully decorated with paint splashes and very interesting Italian phrases. The Pisa people love their bankers...



Prior to restoration work performed between 1990 and 2001, the tower leaned at an angle of 5.5 degrees, but the tower now leans at about 3.99 degrees.This means that the top of the tower is displaced horizontally 3.9 meters (12 ft 10 in) from where it would be if the structure were perfectly vertical.


Pisa pig.


This statue, on a church in San Michele square in Lucca, caught my eye.


On the same church is a statue representing the archangel, Michael, killing a dragon. Michael
has a diamond ring on his finger. It is said that you can see it gleam from a certain spot in the square.


In both Spain and Portugal, wealthy families built towers to live in. This one in Lucca is part of the Gugliani Palace. It was built in the 1300s and has a garden with oak trees on top.


Mrs. Phred and I share a meal in Lucca.


Another Lucca church. The remains of Richard of Wessex, King of England, are inside. He died here in 722 AD. Richard renounced his royal estate and set sail on a pilgramage with his two sons from Hamblehaven near Southampton circa 721 A.D. They landed in France and temporarily stayed in Rouen. From there, they set off on the pilgrimage route to Italy, where they prayed at shrines situated along the way.He died unexpectedly after developing a fever in Lucca,


Church next to the leaning tower.


You raise up your head
And you ask, "Is this where it is ?"
And somebody points to you and says
"It's his"
And you says, "What's mine ?"
And somebody else says, "Where what is ?"
And you say, "Oh my God
Am I here all alone ?"



But something is happening here
But you don't know what it is
Do you, Mr. Jones?
-Bob Dylan







Friday, 2 May 2014

Even a Blind Pig

 "Sometimes finds a truffle"


 At least that's what Mrs. Phred says when I stumble upon the Fortezza Medicia after she forces me to buy a 3 euro cheap map and ask for directions at a local tobacco shop....the proprietor and I handle the whole thing in an elegant little hand gesture and body language quiet charade...



We are standing on the fortress wall...it's mostly used for concerts these days......We ride the bus 90 minutes from Florence to Siena...the bus is like the train....you buy the ticket and validate it in a little yellow box...nobody collects your ticket or punches it but you get a big fine if you ride with an unvalidated ticket and get caught...interesting strategy...You can see the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta in the background. It's a truly beautiful church up close.


A view from inside the cathedral..


Siena...hilltop city..


It starts to rain so we stop for lunch and a bottle of white wine...


Pinocchio figures are ubiquitous in store windows...it was an Italian tale...


Inside this building are pictures of Italian "resistance" heros...






Thursday, 1 May 2014

Buses, Trains and Holidays

Florence, Italy


We spend a couple of hour wandering around the train station trying to find the bus station which is supposed to be just across the street. Finally a Japanese lady points us to a vendor who is selling bus tours. The vendor points in a direction which leads us to the cleverly hidden bus station. The ticket office is closed for yet another holiday (although the buses are running)...


Somewhat satisfied, we track down three interesting restaurants which serve traditional Florence worker's meals....as you might suspect they are all closed for the holiday...


 We cross over the Arno river in search of ethnic and authenic gelato. The recommended gelatateria is (surprise) open...I have cheese and pear and Mrs Phred goes for the white chocolate...


The Tutti Castle is closed but they let us in to see the Boboli gardens out back....


We cross the Arno again and pass the jewelry stores on the famous Ponte Vecchio bridge...


 Mrs Phred and I buy our first train ticket for May 5th to Levanto in the Cinque Terra area...its about 30 eyros for the three hour ride...


I booked a hotel for eight days in Marghera (next to Venice) starting May 8th...the room prices in Venice were more than I really wanted to pay...






Florence

We arrive in Florence about 3PM and find that Florence's museums are open at night with free admission. There are concerts and special events all around the city for the Notte Bianca, ...(White Night)...


 We wander the streets and find that we are close to the train station, the Duomo, and the Ponte Vecchio bridge...


I have five recommended gelato palaces circled on my map. You want to avoid the engineered stuff with additives, artificial flavors and pumped in air....ice crystals are a giveaway and blues and bubble gum pink are clues about the phoney stuff....


 We want to take the bus to Sienna one day and maybe Pisa on another....


Last night we shared a bottle of Chianti. I had a really nice octopus salad and grilled salmon and Mrs. Phred had veal Marsala and an eggplant salad. We shared tiramisu cake and watched the incredible crowds party and sing though the night....


Today (May 1st) is also a special occasion in Florence as The Girdle of Thomas ( Virgin's Girdle, Holy Belt, or Sacra Cintola) goes on display....Legend has it that Thomas (doubting Thomas) was the only Apostle to witness the ascension  of the Virgin Mary directly to heaven and she dropped to him  her girdle (belt?) on the way up....