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Thursday, 18 April 2013

The Alfama District

Lisbon, Portugal

We set out in search of the Alfama district and it's Fado clubs:
"In popular belief, fado is a form of music characterized by mournful tunes and lyrics, often about the sea or the life of the poor, and infused with a characteristic sentiment of resignation, fatefulness and melancholia (loosely captured by the word "saudade", or longing). However, although the origins are difficult to trace, today fado is regarded, by many, as simply a form of song which can be about anything, but must follow a certain structure. The music is usually linked to the Portuguese word saudade which symbolizes the feeling of loss (a permanent, irreparable loss and its consequent life lasting damage)."



We start with the Baixa District which  is closed to vehicular traffic. I have a "Cafe Cong Layte" (phonetic for coffee with milk......much like Spanish)...It is rude to speak Spanish in Portugal for cultural/historical reasons...Mrs. Phred shops for shoes.



The Oriente region where we spend the night has a lot of expensive infrastructure, restaurants statues, pools, gondolas, train station, metros. auditoriums...etc.







We eat at "Mister Fish" where they sell red snapper by the kilogramme. The name is actually "Senor Peixe"



In the morning the bus runs along the river shore.


We go back to the Belem neighbourhood to see the Museum of Modern Art. This nuclear submarine has people singing noises coming out of the missile launch tubes.



This is the elevator of Santa Justa which was built over 100 years ago. It is a puzzling structure. Apparently there is a walkway on the other side that reaches to somewhere else.


Mrs. Phred approaches the Museum of Modern Art.





In the afternoon, more shoe shopping. Amelda Marcos would like Mrs. Phred.


We take a bus to the top of the highest hill and walk down into the Amalfa District. It is a maze of narrow alleyways packed with Fado clubs where one drinks, dines and listens to soulful Portuguese folk songs...Mrs. Phred is chilly in her little skirt with the cold wind blowing. We navigate to the nearest Metro (subway) station with the GPS and  are back at the hotel two lines and ten stops later.



Wednesday, 17 April 2013

Sunny Day in Portugal

Lisbon, Portugal


Last night we had Francesinhas for dinner. Mine was a block of salted cod and turnip greens embalmed in cheese. Yum...what a gut buster. Mrs. Phred had ham, sausage and bacon with french fries...




I like to stay near the train station in big cities....this one is exceptionally lovely and is cohabited with the Metro....The station is called the Oriente...two stops away on the metro is the airport...




The lovely Mrs. Phred in front of the old Belem Tower on the river banks...


A ceiling in a Catholic church in the Belem district. Our Frommer's said to go to Belem...It was a good tip. We might go back tomorrow to see the Museum of Modern Art.


This Archangel statue went to India twice with the great Navigator Vasco Da Gama. At least you can say he was great for his time...



I loved the Maritime Museum in Belem. This is a very old astrolabe recovered from a sunken ship. The museum had beautiful collections of navigational instruments spanning 600 or 700 years...






The people are unhappy about economic conditions in Portugal.



This old street side urinol was on the way to Saint George's Castle. It came in handy.


We have a reservation for dinner in a Fado at 8:30 tomorrow night.


Eventually we beat two Metro tickets out of a very difficult machine and found our way home at the end of a long day.


Metro art....here be monsters...they are rightfully proud of 15th century explorations...


St George's castle.


Mrs. Phred's reflection accidentally caught in a restaurant window. Love it...



Thursday, 4 April 2013

Exploring Portugal




We will spend four nights in the Lisbon area (April 16-19) and then head North.
We have the guidebooks, the maps, the language guides and a micro sim card with Portugal for the GPS.....

 

April 16 Lisboa... Arrive Lisbon  late because of plane delays in Miami and Madrid....Lisboa Oriente Hotel (4 nights) this is a non-cancellable reservation,… 



April 17 Lisboa Go to the Alfama and see Castelo de Sao Jorge (St George’s Castle, which predates the Romans. In the afternoon go to the suburb of Belem , Try to find a Fado Blues  club for dinner or regional music


 April 18 Lisboa. In the morning see two Lisbon art museums (1.5 hours each) and then in the afternoon, a three hour walking tour of Baixa (Lisbon center) and Chiado . Two shopping streets if time permits…Rua Aurea & Rua de Prata



April 19 Cascais / Sintra / Lisboa . Travel to Sintra. The train leaves about every 15 minutes the fare is about 2 Euros per person each way. Wander around all day and visit the Palacio National de Sintra & Palacio de Pena.



 April 20 Lisboa / Óbidos / Porto...Pick up Rental car from Alamo. See medieval walled city of Obidos. Check into Pousada Palacio do Frexio.



April 21 / Porto .


April 22 Porto / Viana do Castelo / Ponte de Lima / Porto



April 23 Porto /Douro Valley/ Porto



April 24 Porto / Guimaraes/  Montalegre/ Chaves



April 25 Chaves/ Vinhais/ Bragenca/ Pinhao/ Tabuaco




April 26 Tabuaco/ Pinhao/ Tabuaco


April 27  Tabuaco/Trancosa/ Pinhel / Guarda/ Manteigas


 April 28 Manteigas/ Sortelha/ Sabugal/  Castelo Branco


April 29  Castelo Branco/Castelo de Vide/  Marvao



April 30 Marvao / Castelo de Vide /Campo Maior/ Elvas Marvão ...Marvao and Castelo de Vide near Portalegre are historic hilltop villages. The Castelo de Vide has a historic Jewish quarter.



May 1  Marvão / Estremoz / Vila Viçosa / Évora



May 2 Évora- The Almendres Cromlech is about 15 KM west of Evora. The stones there predate Stonehenge by 2,000 years. The site is very photogenic with few tourists.


 May 3 Évora / Sebutal / Sesimbra


 May 4 Sesimbra/ Portugal Tennis Semi-Finals/ Sesimbra


May 5  Seimbra/Lisbon (Fado Music)



May 6 Lisbon/ Istanbul on KLM