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Friday, 8 July 2011

The Pig War

San Juan Island, Straits of Juan de Fuca

We board the ferry at 9am to explore San Juan Island. Our destination is called Friday's Harbor. It's a pretty island, but the real estate seems wildly overpriced to us. We tour the island and have lunch in Friday's Harbor. The most pleasant surprise is that the ride back to Anacortes, Washington is free.


The Pig War was the culmination of a series of treaties that established the western boundary of the United States and Canada. The Treaty of 1818 divided all the land east of the Rocky Mountains along the 49th parallel. The land west of the Rockies and North of Mexico (then extending up to the 42nd parallel) was shared for purposes of exploration between the two entities (British North America and the fledgling United States).



The shared situation became increasingly uncomfortable. The militant American Democratic Party wanted to extend the boundary of the U.S. west of the Rockies up to 54 degrees, 40 minutes north latitude. The war cry of the time was "54/40 or fight". However, the Mexican/American war of 1846 diverted American attention from the Northwest and the western boundary was set at 49 degrees north latitude by the treaty of 1848.



The only fly in the ointment was the fuzzy maps of the straits of Juan de Fuca. The international boundary was agreed to be the middle of the strait, but there were straits on each side of the San Juan Islands, so both sides claimed the islands under differing theories.



Members of the Hudson Bay Company occupied the San Juan Island for the purpose of sheep farming and at the same time about 25 American settlers moved in and began clearing land for farming. In 1859, Lyman Cutlar, an American farmer, found a large black pig rooting in his potato garden. This was not the first occurrence. Cutlar was so upset that he shot and killed the pig. It turned out that the pig was owned by an Irishman, Charles Griffin, who was employed by the Hudson's Bay Company to run the sheep ranch.


Words were exchanged and Cutlar was threatened with arrest by the British. A company of American Marines was dispatched to prevent this and soon thousands of men and hundreds of cannon were staring at each other from opposite ends of the island. Both sides were under orders not to fire the first shot, so the soldiers had to content themselves with hurling taunts and insults.



In 1872, Kaiser Wilhelm of Germany agreed to arbitrate the dispute. Wilhelm listened carefully to the arguments and then awarded the islands to the Americans. The only casualty of this 12 year conflict was one black pig.




Tuesday, 5 July 2011

Port Townsend

Fort Worden State Park

We are camped on the Strait of Juan De Fuca. The Strait is named in honor of its discoverer, Ioánnis Fokás (Greek: Ιωάννης Φωκάς), who is better known by the Spanish version of his name, Juan de Fuca.


There is some doubt that Fokás discovered the strait or even that he actually ever existed...history can be like that...full of doubt...


I have discovered the art of grilling fresh sockeye salmon on a wet cedar plank...it is to die for...the best salmon ever...no doubt about it...


This old horse likes bananas and apples.


From here we can take ferries to see Seattle art museums and to the San Juan Islands. We will rent a motor scooter to tour the islands..Fort Worden once protected our shores from all our potential enemies (especially the Canadians) with 12 inch naval guns..how anachronistic...


The picture above is Mrs. Phred with Marda. Marda drove up from Shelton today to meet with Mrs. Phred. They met on a social networking site for women who like to camp...


Pretty Irises...This weekend hundreds of fiddlers have descended on the park...next weekend they will be back and the cider makers will join them...

Saturday, 2 July 2011

Rialto Beach

Olympic Peninsula, Washington

We packed some books and headed for the beach this morning. I'm reading "Little Big Man". Mrs. Phred has "Rainbow Six" by Tom Clancy.


It's a beautiful day...sunny blue skies...about 65 degrees...we walk about two miles down the beach studying the lovely polished rocks and gigantic bleached driftwood trees...


After a few hours we have lunch in "La Push", the Indian reservation featured in the Twilight saga.

I have an Alfredo pasta with shrimp , scallops and steel head trout. Mrs Phred has fried clams, steel head trout and scallops...It's  all surprisingly good with a great view of the harbor and breakwater...


We'll be heading for Port Townsend on July 4th...Fort Worden has been turned into a State park...The old army base still has tennis courts where the officers used to play...


We would like to spend some days exploring Seattle before we head north to Alaska or east toward the Great Lakes....


Friday, 1 July 2011

The Hoh Rain Forest

Olympic National Park

We started the morning on Ruby Beach in the Olympic National Park. We were too late for the best tide pools. I could pull some photos from my archives, but that would be wrong...


The first time we camped out overnight together was here on the Hoh River. It was June 6, 1968.  I stayed up all night with a stick of wood waiting for the bears while Mrs. Phred slept in a bedroll on a poncho. When we returned to Mccord Air Force Base, my honorable discharge was waiting...We drove to Miami in a fast 72 hours in our 66 Chevy convertible...We arrived just in time to see Bobby Kennedy get assassinated on TV...


Today the Spruce trail is closed because of an aggressive mama elk.


The Cascade Mountains are to our East and the Pacific Ocean is West. The Hoh River valley runs about 40 miles from the Pacific up into the mountains. The adiabatic  process creates an annual average of 144 inches of rainfall in the Hoh valley.


The moist air from the Pacific is forced up as it meets the Cascade mountains. As the air cools it can't hold as much moisture and precipitation results.


This may be the only coniferous rain forest in the world. It has been declared a world heritage site.


At the end of the valley you can see hundreds of unnamed snow-capped mountains.


Definitely one of my favorite places...sweet memories...


Mrs. Phred relaxes after lunch...we walked in about three miles today. The trail was nasty with lots of muddy places...It's rained here even more than usual...


We were here in May of 2006. I jumped into the swift and cold  Hoh river and was immediately swept away with great velocity in the glacier melt water...the clock started ticking...exhaustion  or hypothermia?? Fortunately, as a registered Dive master, I am able to overcome nearly any water adversity...Johnny Weissmuller, eat your heart out...

Thursday, 30 June 2011

Makah Indian Reservation

Cape Flattery, Washington

Cape Flattery is the extreme northwest corner of the lower United States. You can't get much farther away from Key West and still be in the lower 48.....


The Makah Indians own this piece of beautiful real estate. They've built a lovely 3/4 mile walking trail on their reservation that goes steeply downhill to Cape Flattery.


It's a rain forest environment with abundant  moss, ferns and cedar trees.


The Makah have built a series of overlooks on the cape with cedar walkways and  viewing platforms.


We didn't see any seals or whales, but they are common here where the Pacific Ocean meets the wide Strait of Juan de Fuca (Wanda Fooka). Looking north, you can see the mountains of Canada over the strait.


This is a cedar tree. I'm not sure I've ever seen one before.


Lots of ferns and moss here in the rain forest.


We visited a fish hatchery. They raise Chinook salmon, Coho salmon and Steel head trout here. The hatchery cost $13 million. That's actually less than one F-16.  I do not begrudge the money the government spends to hatch fish. The fish have helped us and now we need to help the fish.


They have a new way of tagging hatchery fish by implanting a tiny wire in the nose of each fish.


The odd gadget above is an electronic fish weir.  It forces the Chinook (king) salmon up the fish ladder into the hatchery where they spawn in a most unnatural way and produce many new salmon.