Search This Blog

Showing posts with label Illinois. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Illinois. Show all posts

Wednesday, 9 May 2012

The Town that Imploded

Cairo, Illinois

Cairo is on the confluence of the Ohio and the Mississippi Rivers. The bridge over the Ohio takes you from Western Kentucky to the extreme southern point of Illinois.


I'm always intrigued by the confluence of significant rivers. You would think that this would be a bustling transportation hub. In fact, some English hotshots invested heavily in this area in the early 1800's. Even Charles Dickens was intrigued by the geography. His analysis was not kind. Dickens called Cairo, "a breeding place of fever, ague, and death . . . an ugly sepulchre, a grave uncheered by any gleam of promise."


The slow death of Cairo has left it a sort of ghost town. Many structures have been cleared leaving huge grassy swaths of land. Other imposing structures stand empty on wide deserted boulevards.


Cairo had about 15,000 inhabitants in 1920. A series of racial clashes in the late 1960s and early 1970s resulted in the gradual dissolution  of the town and a reduction of the population to 3,000, mostly black citizens.




A young woman approached our car as we drove past a residential area. She said that she needed money to take her baby to Tennessee. The other people on the lawn, she explained, were cocaine addicts, but she could see by my face that I was an excellent judge of people and could see that she was different.  I gave her some money so she could get to Tennessee.


The only industry in Cairo at the current time is the huge Bunge factory that processes soybeans


According to WIKI: 
"Cairo's turbulent history is often traced back to the lynching of black resident William James. In 1900, Cairo had a population of nearly 13,000. Of that total, approximately 5,000 residents were black. In 1900, this was an unusually high black population for a town of Cairo's size. Five percent of all black residents of the state of Illinois resided in Cairo. As a result of the large black population in a town with a traditionally southern white heritage, race relations were already strained by 1900.[10] On the night of November 11, 1909 two men were lynched. The first man lynched was a black man named William James. James was lynched for the assault and murder of Anna Pelly, a young white woman killed three days earlier. The second man lynched was a white man named Henry Salzner. Salzner was lynched for the alleged murder of his wife that took place in August."



In 1967 Robert Hunt, a 19 year-old black soldier returning from Vietnam was found hanged in the Cairo police station.  Police reported that Hunt had hanged himself with his t-shirt, but many members of the black community of Cairo accused the police of murder.


Also from Wiki
"In response to the rioting of July 1967, the white community in Cairo formed a citizens protection group that was deputized by the sheriff. The protection group became known as the "White Hats", because many of its 600 members began wearing white construction hats to show their membership while patrolling the streets to maintain order. In the following two years, accusations of White Hat bullying incidents in the black community began to increase"

 "In December 1969, violence escalated again as several more businesses were burned on Saturday, December 6. Early that morning, residents of the Pyramid Courts housing project opened fire on three firemen and the Chief of Police while they were responding to one of the intense fires. During the shootout, the Chief of Police and one of the firemen were shot by a high powered rifle. 13 people were eventually arrested during the conflict."


Many of the white residents and business owners of Cairo left in large numbers as the result of racial strife. Most Cairo businesses had closed by 1971. 


In 1978 interstate 57 bypassed the city. The lower gas prices in Kentucky and Missouri doomed those service stations that had remained open. Cairo's hospital also closed in December 1987, due to high debt and dwindling patients.


Today, Cairo has a largely black population, down 80% from its peak.It's a strange place.


Monday, 30 August 2010

Chicago 2

Sunday in the City


Chicago is constantly becoming. The old elevated trains and 60 old iron drawbridges are remnants from a time gone by...


HOG Butcher for the World,
Tool Maker, Stacker of Wheat,
Player with Railroads and the Nation's Freight Handler;
Stormy, husky, brawling,
City of the Big Shoulders:

They tell me you are wicked and I believe them, for I
have seen your painted women under the gas lamps
luring the farm boys.
And they tell me you are crooked and I answer: Yes, it
is true I have seen the gunman kill and go free to
kill again.
And they tell me you are brutal and my reply is: On the
faces of women and children I have seen the marks
of wanton hunger.
And having answered so I turn once more to those who
sneer at this my city, and I give them back the sneer
and say to them:
Come and show me another city with lifted head singing
so proud to be alive and coarse and strong and cunning.
Flinging magnetic curses amid the toil of piling job on
job, here is a tall bold slugger set vivid against the
little soft cities;

Fierce as a dog with tongue lapping for action, cunning
as a savage pitted against the wilderness,
Bareheaded,
Shoveling,
Wrecking,
Planning,
Building, breaking, rebuilding,
Under the smoke, dust all over his mouth, laughing with
white teeth,
Under the terrible burden of destiny laughing as a young
man laughs,
Laughing even as an ignorant fighter laughs who has
never lost a battle,
Bragging and laughing that under his wrist is the pulse.
and under his ribs the heart of the people,
Laughing!
Laughing the stormy, husky, brawling laughter of
Youth, half-naked, sweating, proud to be Hog
Butcher, Tool Maker, Stacker of Wheat, Player with
Railroads and Freight Handler to the Nation.

- Carl Sandburg


If you get a chance, read "The Devil in the White City" about the 1893 Chicago World's Fair and a classic American Psycho Killer of that time period. The 1893 fair had a Ferris wheel that could carry 2,215 at a time. The wheel had a diameter of 250 feet and had 36 cars carrying 60 riders in each car. It was powered by a 1,000 horsepower steam engine.



They had originally thought to build a taller Eiffel Tower. Most of the buildings burned down shortly after the fair. Dr. H.H. Holmes designed a hotel for the explicit purpose of murdering and cremating the young women who came to Chicago to find work....his final tally will never be known and might well be unsurpassed...


The elevated train line runs in a circle around innermost Chicago...the expression "In the Loop" apparently originated here.


We take the "West" tour today though Chinatown, Little Italy and the Greek areas. It also runs though what everyone, including the residents, used to call "Jewtown". It was a more brutal, less politically correct, era...


Lunch in Little Italy is good, but it must have had a lot of salt. I bought about a gallon of water on the walk back to catch the 4:30 train back to Joliet.


We've seen a lot of these curved buildings in NYC...


The fountain area in Millennium Park is full of children. The tower is built of glass blocks and illuminated from within by a moving face.



This is a mirror in the Chicago art museum.


More pictures from the 96th floor of the John Hancock building.


The train on Sunday has lots of kids in bathing suits heading for the Lake Michigan beaches.








Sunday, 29 August 2010

View From Joliet

Chicago



We're camped out at the Empress Casino in Joliet, Illinois. Friday night we went in to buy a drink and look over the casino.


The bar has an electronic poker machine on the tabletop. You don't put in coins anymore. Now you insert paper money or your credit card. It's stunning to think I could set there and lose $30,000 or whatever my remaining credit limit might be.




The last time I remember gambling was 1966 in Okinawa. The club had some slots. I dropped in two quarters and lost both times, which put me off gambling. In 1980 I used Excel to generate six random numbers and bought a dollar lottery ticket and also lost. This time I lost two dollar bills. I played for a quarter a hand. Twice I could have won three quarters on three of a kind, but I pushed the wrong buttons and hit "deal" instead of "hold" and lost one of my trips in error.



Joliet is depressing. The old prison is famous. You might remember "Joliet" Jake Blues, Elwood Blue's brother. The little city is dirty and poor, but convenient for our runs into Chicago on the Rock Island Line.
Down the rock island line is a might good road
Oh the rock island line is the road to ride
The rock island line is a mighty good road
Well if you want to ride you gotta ride it like you find it
Get your ticket at the station of the rock island line

This is the Hancock Building.




The run into Chicago is an hour and twenty minutes. We pay seven dollars each for a weekend pass...all you can ride...


I left the camera memory card in the computer again, so we head for the John Hancock tower and pick up another 4 gig card in Best Buy...




We get another weekend pass on the double decker tourist bus and spend the day hopping on and off. The old Sears Tower is now the tallest building in this hemisphere. It's the Willis Tower now. A small English Insurance firm leased three floor last year and bought the naming rights.




Chicago has spectacular architecture. We spend Saturday snapping pictures and visit the Art Museum. It's ok...lots of Gaugins, Monets, etc....I think we liked the ones in St. Louis and Kansas City more...


This is Marina City, which the locals call the "Corncob" buildings. Bob Newhart lived here in the old Bob Newhart show.



We ended the day with a couple of drinks in the "Signature" room of the John Hancock building on the 96th floor....I kept looking for airplanes, but nothing happened...



We love this thing. It's in Millenium Park and it's called "The Bean". It's designed to give a panoramic view of downtown.



This structure is the bandstand in Millenium Park.












Thursday, 14 June 2007

Flinging Magnetic Curses

Chicago. Illinois – June 13, 2007

…Come and show me another city with lifted head singing
so proud to be alive and coarse and strong and cunning.
Flinging magnetic curses amid the toil of piling job on
job, here is a tall bold slugger set vivid against the
little soft cities…


Yesterday we drove about 300 miles on secondary roads though Indiana and Illinois. The endless cornfields have new plants about two feet tall. We didn’t find any roadside vegetable stands.

We are camped in Starved Rock State Park, 100 miles West of Chicago. Mrs. Phred wanted to see Chicago so we drove to Joliet and took the Metra train in to the Lafayette street station. The 30-mile ride took about 90 minutes.

The first thing we recognize is the Chicago Public library. I want to see the Museum of Contemporary Photography so we walk past the “El” down to Michigan Avenue. John Belushi did the “cheeseburger” skit in one of the small restaurants near the El. We look for it but don’t find it. The El is pure Chicago, massive steel girders that suspend thundering trains above the street level.

Many of the warehouses, print shops and factories have been converted to high-end residential. We are surprised to agree that this may be the most beautiful city in the world (sorry Paris!). The architecture is stunning. My favorite is a 1980s Art Deco style skyscraper on the river. The style has been called “Echo Deco”.

The tall buildings and extensive public parks have been suspended in the air over massive invisible networks of roads, subways, loading docks and rail lines. The railroads sold only the air rights to developers.

The Chicago River winds though the city. There are 30 closely placed “moveable bridges”. Chicago pioneered a teeter-totter type iron bridge that can be quickly retracted for boat traffic.

Around 1900 the sewage dumped into the river was being sucked into the city’s fresh water supply. This was causing big problems with cholera and other diseases so they dynamited a sub-continental divide upstream and sent the sewage on down to Saint Louis instead of out into Lake Michigan. The dumping of sewage and industrial toxins stopped about 30 years ago and now there are 73 species of toxic fish living in the river. To get out of the river, boats now use a lock, one that raises them to the level of Lake Michigan.

There are some interesting ethnic enclaves near the center of the city: Italian, Ukrainian and Polish. A cell phone tower stands on the former site of Mrs. O’Leary’s barn. A drunken Irishman started a fire there that jumped the river and burned down most of Chicago in 1871. The timely fire permitted the redevelopment of the city and the close concentration of tall steel-frame buildings.

Geography explains Chicago. It is centrally located on one of the Great Lakes, a rail hub with a shipping canal dug to the Mississippi River. As a result it quickly became a center for meat packing, transportation, printing and merchandise distribution.

…Laughing the stormy, husky, brawling laughter of
Youth, half-naked, sweating, proud to be Hog- Butcher,
Tool Maker, Stacker of Wheat, Player with
Railroads and Freight Handler to the Nation.

- Sandburg

Here are some Chicago pictures.