Search This Blog

Showing posts with label Montana. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Montana. Show all posts

Friday, 17 April 2020

Black Buffalo Woman

Little Big Horn River, Montana -June 15, 2013



Custer made Major General during the Civil War at the age of 25. He had eleven horses shot out from under him during the Battle of Culpepper Courthouse. He was 37 on June 25, 1876, when his career came to an abrupt end in Montana.

I'm not one to criticize a great military leader, but it seems odd that Custer would divide his forces into three prongs at the banks of the Little Big Horn River and then subdivide his remaining third into two wings.

He asked his second in command, Major Reno, to attack the Lakota camp from the South.  Reno's men were routed as the Lakota boiled out of camp like hornets.

Custer's own 209 men, after attacking from the North,  moved to a hilltop, shot their horses in the head and used their carcasses for what has been described as well-organized breastworks and last-ditch bid for survival.

The whole thing was the result of a  land grab by American authorities who had reneged on a previous treaty because of the discovery of gold in the Black Hills. The slaughter of the buffalo upon which the Lakota depended as food was another cause of the conflict.


 The Bighorn Mountains were off to our left as we moved up through Buffalo and Sheridan...antelope and deer browse the grassland with no apparent fear...


 They've placed dead soldier markers all over the battlefield where Custer's last command was wiped out. A CSI type investigation of firing pin marks on cartridge cases and arrowhead types and broken finger bones and crushed skulls was also done...it all jives very closely with contemporaneous Indian accounts of the battle...and they were the only ones talking...


There is a National Cemetery here. The first 200-300 graves are for Custer's soldiers, civilians and Crow Indian scouts ...

 
after that, you start seeing old Indian Scouts, Spanish American war vets, WWI soldiers and eventually WWII, Korea, Viet Nam, Iraq and Afghanistan...totally cool...I could be here someday...or not...LOL...My outfit was the 7th Military Airlift Squadron running cross-Pacific missions in and around Viet Nam...we used to joke that we were the offspring of Custer's 7th Cavalry.


This is a shot of The Little Big Horn River today...The Lakota and Cheyenne had established a large camp on the river in search of antelope when Custer decided to try to force them into a smaller reservation...



Sitting Bull and Crazy Horse were two of the best known Indian leaders. They engineered Custer's ignominious defeat. Below is an actual photo of sitting bull...Sitting Bull fled to Canada after Little Big Horn. He returned five years later and in 1890 was killed by Lieutenant Henry Bull Head. Sitting Bull's death coincided with the massacre at Wounded Knee and may explain the Ghost Dance movement that spread widely at the time.


This is an artist's rendition of Crazy Horse. A gigantic statue of Crazy Horse is being carved out of a granite mountain in the Black Hills. The project has been underway for 70 years and may take another 500 to complete. The effort makes Gaudi's church in Barcelona seem fast-paced by comparison. Here is a link to my Blog about the Crazy Horse project. When finished it will be the largest statue in the world....bigger than the pyramids...carved from the hardest rock in America...



Wiki has this story about Crazy Horse.....
""In the fall of 1867, Crazy Horse invited Black Buffalo Woman to accompany him on a buffalo hunt in the Slim Buttes area of present-day northwestern South Dakota. She was the wife of No Water, who had a reputation for drinking too much. It was Lakota custom to allow a woman to divorce her husband at any time. She did so by moving in with relatives or with another man, or by placing the husband's belongings outside their lodge. Although some compensation might be required to smooth over hurt feelings, the rejected husband was expected to accept his wife's decision. No Water was away from camp when Crazy Horse and Black Buffalo Woman left for the buffalo hunt.

No Water tracked down Crazy Horse and Black Buffalo Woman in the Slim Buttes area. When he found them in a tipi, he called Crazy Horse's name from outside. When Crazy Horse answered, No Water stuck a pistol into the tipi and aimed for Crazy Horse. Touch the Clouds, Crazy Horse's first cousin and son of Lone Horn, was sitting in the tipi nearest the entry. He knocked the pistol upward as No Water fired, deflecting the bullet to Crazy Horse's upper jaw. No Water left, with Crazy Horse's relatives in hot pursuit. No Water ran his horse until it died and continued on foot until he reached the safety of his own village".

A bronze statue by James Ford imagines Black Buffalo Woman....as she might have been...I took a long walk along a dirt road this morning just after sunrise...it's a beautiful country...a herd of about 20 mares and colts stared at me strangely on the road...they were "paints"...the creek here is named after Major Reno...After Custer asked him to attack from the South he led his men in a mad scramble to run away from the Lakota camp and lived to fight another day and bury Custer...


Reno was later charged with public drunkenness and with making unwanted advances toward another officer's wife. He was also charged with cowardice and drunkenness for his behavior at Little Big Horn and also indicted for peeking through the bathroom window of the daughter of his commanding officer...


 the hilltop of Custer's last stand....the last 50 or so of his 209 men fell here at the spots indicated by markers...after shooting their horses....

Tuesday, 14 July 2015

Coeur D' Alene, Idaho

 Even Cowboys Get the Blues

 I had a high school buddy who lived here in Idaho. I had planned to at least call him again on the way though, but the Internet says that he passed away unexpectedly on April 30, 2014. He left behind children, grandchildren and great grandchildren. He was a lot of fun way back then.


It was bad enough losing good friends to car accidents, motorcycle fatalities, combat, brain cancer, and early heart attacks. Losing them to old age and natural causes is just flat depressing....apparently I will live forever and suffer either survivor's guilt or survivor's elation.


My older cousin Everett organised his 50th high school reunion back in 2010. He told me that 50 percent of his 1960 high school classmates were dead for one reason or another. He was born 12 days before me...apparently December, 1942 was a fecund period.


We're in Coeur D'Alene, Idaho. It's a really nice place with public tennis courts, good shopping and movie theaters....we just saw "Minions"....it was available in 3D, but I was in a hurry.


We did the Going-to-the-Sun Road again back in Glacier. The snow pack at Logan's Pass sometimes exceeds 80 feet. The road sometimes doesn't open until mid-July. They have snow removal equipment that can move 400 tons an hour, but some days they only advance 500 feet.


One morning this week I got up at 5AM in Glacier National Park and hiked about four miles up the Going-to-the-Sun Road...I took a lot of early morning pictures which are still on a Sim card somewhere...



We had a moose run past our RV here in Coeur D'Alene...I asked Mrs. Phred to take a picture, but all we got was the legs...


Mrs. Phred has a lot of horseback riding stories...there was one time when she was riding an Arabian  in Israel which jumped the fence and bolted toward the border. It got hungry and came back to the stable......two weeks later she was near the Wall in Jerusalem and her hat blew off. When she chased it, an Arab fired a round at her feet...


Thursday, 9 July 2015

Two Medicine Lake and Rockwell Falls

Glacier National Park, Montana

We take the seven mile hike in Two Medicine up to Rockwell Falls. When we get there, we have them all to ourselves.


I meet a troll guarding a bridge.


The second falls is behind the lower falls.


We take the boat one-way on the return trip over Two Medicine Lake. That cuts a mile off the return trip and obviates the need to retrace the last 2.8 miles of the South Shore trail.


Someone has lost their mom around here...we see this graffiti on road barriers all over the area.


You can tell grizzly bear ca-ca because it is full of little bells and smells like pepper spray.


You can rent canoes and kayaks at Two Medicine.


We keep hoping to see moose. So far we've seen a chipmunk and a squirrel.





In case you wondered, that's a Ho Chi Mihn t-shirt.


Many Glacier

Glacier National Park, Montana

We spent three nights in Great Falls before driving up to Glacier National Park. Great Falls is one of our favorite places. I always have one drink in the Icehouse Bar, which prohibits colors, firearms and aggressive behavior.


 We stayed in this old lodge in Many Glacier about 25 years ago. It was very cold and grizzly bears were wandering about near the lodge. The lodges in Glacier and  the Canadian park in Waterton were built by the Great Northern Railroad in the 1920s as a way to encourage affluent Americans to visit the USA instead of Europe.


 We're going back Sunday to ride horses up into the mountains.



 We're staying in Saint Mary's at the beginning of the Going-to-the-Sun highway. Glacier is a great place to hike. Glacier has over 700 miles of hiking trails. These are well described on the internet.


The fishing here is a little confusing. No license is required within the park, but no lead can be used, only certain species can be taken and only artificial lures can be used. On Blackfoot territory, the Indians have their own rules and permits. In Montana, off the Park and off the reservation, another set of licenses and rules prevail.


Many Glacier is high on the East side of Glacier National Park. Very beautiful...

Saturday, 4 July 2015

4th of July

White Sulphur Springs, Montana

We found a place for the 4th about 150 miles north of Yellowstone. All the other parks I called were full for the weekend.

White Sulphur Springs has a long history of copper, timber and cattle. A small fort was established here in 1866 to protect the settlers and miners. They're having a 5K run, pancake breakfast, parade, barbeque and fireworks today. The population was 989 as of the 2010 census.


They flutter behind you your possible pasts,
Some bright-eyed and crazy, some frightened and lost.
A warning to anyone still in command....
...Of their possible future, to take care.
In derelict sidings the poppies entwine
With cattle trucks lying in wait for the next time.
-Pink Floyd


The raft trip on the Gallatin River was very exciting, although no one fell in and no rafts overturned.


The water temperature was 42 F (about 5 C) and we got wet a lot going though the class III and IV rapids. Down at Three Forks, near here, the Madison, Gallatin and Jefferson rivers form a confluence and become the Missouri River which feeds into the Mississippi and then empties into the Gulf of Mexico. The three rivers, west to east, were named by Meriwether Lewis in late July 1805 for President Thomas Jefferson, Secretary of State James Madison, and Treasury Secretary Albert Gallatin.


Mrs. Phred rents a wetsuit, a splash jacket and booties....I left hers with friends back in Sarasota...she doesn't like being cold, I guess....We went with Geyser Whitewater up Near Big Sky, Montana. A very nice trip and (to my surprise) they threw in a barbeque lunch after the trip at no extra charge.


Our raft companions were a couple from Copenhagen and their young daughter...they ask what we remember about Copenhagen and I draw a blank.....after reviewing my blog, I now remember that it was very cold and hard to find an ATM....


The train doesn't stop here anymore.



Lewis and Clark camped near here on the way back from the Pacific Coast.  White Sulphur Springs has a small library, a casino, three bars and two restaurants.I smelled the sulphur on my walk this morning.


Roadside statue of a stereotypical mountain man ....


Driving toward White Sulphur Springs Montana on Highway 89....


Monday, 19 August 2013

Great Falls, Montana

Walking in the Morning

We're back in Great Falls. The weather is very windy and hot. I've been doing the two hours walks at dawn every morning.  Lewis and Clarke came through here over 200 years ago on one of humanities most amazing explorations...what would they think of the place now?  We're on the banks of the Missouri River....Lewis and Clarke spent a month portaging around 18 miles of falls and rapids while dealing with huge grizzly bears and rattlesnakes...Many members of the expedition were ill, including Sacagawea who had been suffering for more than a week from an unknown sickness. Clark, Charbonneau, Sacagawea and her baby nearly drowned in a violent storm of torrential rain and huge hailstones.



Friday I walked to downtown Dawson Creek. I think that's about 800 miles north. I saw the Greyhound bus pull in before dawn. It was pulling a big trailer with things people were shipping.. There were a couple of restaurants open for breakfast. Later we drove 400 miles to Red Deer, Alberta.



Saturday we found the Lion's campground on the Red Deer River in Red Deer. I could live there. They have 150 kilometers of parks and walking trails. We bought eight books at the public library which is located in the heart of downtown in a lovely park/flower garden....forgot my camera...



Red Deer was having a Latin Festival on Saturday. We watched the dancing and listened to the music for a couple of hours...they had food from Columbia and Salvador...no camera...


Saturday at dawn I walked my six miles on the banks of the Red Deer. Sunday I went downtown. I met a very disreputable looking character who asked me if I was looking for anything...It was Sunday at 6AM....I think he wanted to give me directions, but I knew where I was....then a kid on a skateboard asked me if I knew where the library was and I gave him explicit directions....


Today I walked around Great Falls....I ended up in a no trespassing area on the railroad tracks and had to climb over a high barbed wire fence to get out...it was that or walk over a long railroad bridge wondering if a train would be coming....


No walking tomorrow...we found a tennis court...Mrs. Phred and I will play tennis and test her broken foot....I smell victory...it's the smell of napalm in the morning....love it...
 

I bought some size 34 Levi 514s today...The 38s and 40s will go to the homeless shelter back in Sarasota....


The pictures in this blog are not related to the text in any way.....except that they are both mine...