Search This Blog

Monday, 4 June 2007

Wild Horses and Love Bugs

Crooked River State Park, Georgia – June 3, 2007

It's 4,995 miles from Tampa to Fairbanks, Alaska. At an average of 150 miles a day, we should be there about the 4th of July...Minnesota, Saskatchewan, Manitoba, Alberta, the Yukon Territories...places we've never been.

Tropical storm Barry followed us from Tampa to Georgia. The wind and rain cooled things off and suppressed the bugs, making camping pleasant for this time of year. As it is, the rain brings much need replenishment for parched lawns, reservoirs and crops. Also, the black clouds of shamelessly copulating Love Bugs should be down in the grass instead of plastered in pairs on the front of the RV. They are nearly impossible to remove after they dry for ten hours.

We’re camped on the banks of Crooked River in South Georgia. There’s a huge submarine base nearby. Our campground overlooks the river, which is a typical Georgia coastal river winding though wide expanses of savannah-like grasslands.

We take the ferry over to Cumberland Island for a swim and picnic. The ferry takes you (but not your bike) to a pristine National Seashore on Cumberland Island. Wild horses roam the beach there. The horses are not all that healthy and have adapted to drinking brackish water and eating sea oats. They have a high salt content and their ribs show. Naturalists want them gone to avoid damage to sea oats. Animal rights groups want them rounded up and treated by vets. Tourists love them.

The ruins of the Dungeness mansion sit in the woods. The mansion was built by Lucy Carnegie. Feral descendents of the Carnegies are said to roam the woods at night. The word Dungeness has a French origin. It means “dangerous nose”. The UK has a Dungeness in Kent. Lucy Carnegie bought up most of this 18 mile long island and then tied it up in her will until the last of her children died in 1963.

In 1959, the Dungeness groundskeeper shot a poacher in the leg. The poacher’s relatives returned and burned the mansion and family yacht. You don’t mess with Georgia boys over a crummy deer, Carnegie or not.

There is a small one-room church for freed slaves here. It has no electricity. For some reason, JFK, Jr. elected to be married in the church. This is one of three National Seashores we have visited on the East coast. One is down in Florida by Cape Canaveral. Another is the Outer Banks up in North Carolina.

Thursday, 31 May 2007

The Winged Goddess of Victory

Katakolon, Greece – May 14, 2007

We take the bus to Olympia, a world heritage site. The structures all tumbled down in a 6th century earthquake. One building was completed by Alexander the Great. It was circular and contained five family statues of made of ivory and gold. One statue was of his mother, who was also his first wife.



The temple of Zeus contained a 40 foot tall statue of the seated god. Resting in his hand was a three foot statue of Nike, winged goddess of victory. They’ve found enough column pieces to put up a couple of columns that give an idea of the huge scale.

The Olympic athletes here competed in the nude. Women were not allowed to watch. Women who snuck in were made to jump to their death from a high rock. One early "soccer mom" dressed as a trainer. She revealed herself by jumping up and down and whistling when her son won. She was from an important family and got to skip the rock thing. After that the trainers and other spectators all had to watch in the nude.

If you won an Olympic game the city bigwigs made you dinner every day for life and cut your taxes. Immortality was also an incentive. The airport on the island of Rhodes is named after one of the 921 Olympic winners whose names are still currently known...

I got to snorkel the port Katakolon an hour or two ago...The Aegean Sea…clear and cold...the sunbathers are curious about what I saw. I tell them sea grass, ancient shipwrecks filled with pots of wine containers, a great white shark, a sunken Maserati and several mythical sirens.


The word gymnasium is from the Greek gymnos, which means “naked”. Here are a few pictures of the Olympia ruins.

Wednesday, 30 May 2007

This is your Captain, speaking from the Bridge

Santorini, Greece – May 15, 2007

I begin to wonder where else he would be speaking from…”This is your Captain, speaking from the main bar on the Lido deck. As soon as I finish my tenth margarita, we set sail for Turkey.” The photo below is a gold ibex. It is the only gold artifact recovered from the destroyed civilization.


A cruise ship carrying 1,200 went down here a month or so ago. It rests on the bottom around here somewhere in 300 feet of water. Apparently the Greek crew was watching a soccer game as they pulled into port. Here’s a great video of the big ship going down.

Santorini is an island and a white city perched on the rim of the world’s largest caldera. It erupted about 1750 BC and killed off a fairly advanced civilization. There is a theory that the resulting tidal wave exterminated the Minoan civilization on Crete 75 miles south. Another theory says this island is really Atlantis.

We’re anchored inside the 9 mile by 14 mile caldera. To get to the city you take a donkey up a twisted path, an elevation gain of a thousand feet or so. You can also walk, but mind the donkey dung. The donkey ride up is 4 euros. 90% of the tourists use the gondola ride. A few walk.

The streets of Santorini are lined with gold. The shops are open 8 AM to 12…then 4 PM to 8…longer if the cruise ships are in port.

Here are some donkey pictures.

Tuesday, 29 May 2007

Das Boot

The Adriatic Sea – May 11, 2007

After the day long drive back from Sicily, we sleep near the Rome airport, and then take a long taxi ride at 140 kilometers per hour from the hotel near the Rome airport to Civitaveccio. The check in process is fairly painless and we have lunch on the “Lido deck” while our rooms are being prepared.

In the afternoon we watch a new Robin Williams movie called “Man of the Year” in one of the ship theatres. We have sailed around the toe and heel of Italy and are sailing north now toward Dubrovnik, Croatia.

The boat has a well stocked lending library. I’m disappointed that the wireless costs $.75 per minute, but at least it’s not .75 euros. They deduct $10 a day per passenger to cover all tips. Wine is extra. The prices run $30 a bottle and up. The less expensive wines run out quickly. I buy a “drink card” for $50 that covers ten drinks. I have to work hard the last day to use it up. The margaritas aren’t bad, but I know a bar in Las Cruces that tends to spoil it for others.

Our dinner companions are Ray and Marianne from Bedford, England. Ray has a tremendous sense of humor and Marianne has an easy laugh. They seem well paired. We’re lucky. Dinner tonight was formal.

The distance from Civitaveccio, near Rome, to Dubrovnik, Croatia, is about 700 nautical miles. We steam for 36 hours and arrive the morning of the 12th after passing the volcanoes of Vesuvius, Stromboli and Etna. We pass though the straights near Messina to enter the Ionian Sea again and round the boot heel of Italy to head north in the Adriatic Sea to Dubrovnik.

This is our first cruise. The food is good. Here are a few boat shots.


May 10 – Civitaveccio, Italy

May 11 – At Sea

May 12 – Dubrovnik, Croatia

May 13 – Corfu, Greece

May 14 – Katakolon, Greece

May 15 – Santorini, Greece

May 16 – Kusadasi, Turkey

May 17 – Piraeus, Greece

May 18 – At Sea

May 19 – Messina, Sicily

May 20 - Civitaveccio, Italy

Sunday, 27 May 2007

Ancient Nymphateums

The Isle of Capri – May 1, 2007

The camera doesn’t lie. The dates on the Capri pictures are May 1st , our second day out. We catch the ferry from Sorrento.


The first time we came here, years ago, we walked uphill and found a sign pointing and found a sign pointing to the Blue Grotto. After a nice walk past some residences we came to an overlook of the Grotto. There are some legends here about some scandalous behavior by the Roman emperors Augustus and Tiberius: debauched orgies, flinging people from cliffs, nymphateums and other politically incorrect forms of behavior.



This time we take the bus and funicular uphill to the main tourist area and then the chairlift to the top of a mountain. The sweeping views are a little obscured by clouds and mist so photo ops from the top weren't there. The island is full of daytrippers like us this time of year. The guidebooks suggest that spending a night or two to enjoy the more laid back evenings might be a good idea.